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Archive Reference / Library Class No.D8760/F/FEP/1/1/25
Former ReferenceD3311/50/7
TitleLetter from John Franklin to wife Eleanor Anne Franklin, describing his journey from New York northwards on his second Arctic land expedition
Date26 Mar 1825-7 Apr 1825
DescriptionDate 26 Mar 1825 with postscript 7 Apr 1825. Describes journey by steamer from New York to Albany and reception by local dignatories.  Describes public buildings and visits to the state Parliament and to a museum.  Reports conversations with local people knowledgeable about the expedition.  Great Western canal ice-bound, so will need to proceed by stage coach. Relates information about Mr Moore who cheated Lord Grosvenor.   7 Apr: describes further journey: lists locations on the route, including Niagara Falls.  Discusses prospects for the next stage of the journey.  Dr Richardson and Mr Kendall have gone ahead.  Canadian voyageurs expected to arrive from Montreal within days. Sends personal messages from Richardson and himself to relatives and friends.  Asks for news of the voyage home of Lady Franklin [Catherine Franklin, wife of Sir Willingham Franklin, died 23 Sep 1824 India] and of James's return to India.
Extent1 sheet
LevelItem
RepositoryDerbyshire Record Office
SenderJohn Franklin
Sender LocationAlbany [New York]; York, Capital of Upper Canada, Lake Ontario
RecipientEleanor Anne Franklin
Recipient Location6 Gower Street, London (55 Devonshire Street, Portland Place crossed out)
Archive CreatorEleanor Anne Porden, later Eleanor Franklin (1795-1825)
Gell family of Hopton Hall, Wirksworth
Transcript or IndexAlbany
Saturday 26th March 1825

My dearest love
Having a little leisure I shall commence another letter to you. This place is 140 miles distant from New York and we reached it by the steam vessel in 21 hours. The Hudson River on which it, as well as New York stands, abounds with very interesting scenery, especially in the Highlands which continue for about twenty miles – we had the greatest pleasure in viewing them, as well from their being the scenes of many contests between the British and American forces in what is here called the Revolutionary War – among other interesting spots which were pointed out to us <were those> where the unfortunate Major Andre met General Arnold – where he was taken, and where he was executed – and we had the whole account given us by the British Consul, of the disinterring his bones – for the purpose of their being deposited in Westminster Abbey – where they now are. This is the chief city of this large state, and as soon as we arrived we called upon the Governor, the Major and upon the principal landed Proprietor, who retains his old <Dutch> title of Patroon. This gentleman having been informed of our coming, had a dinner prepared for us – to which we of course went. His house is fitted with much more taste and elegance and the dinner was served in better style than any we have <yet> seen in this country. The Patroons are descendants of the original Dutch families to whom large grants of land where granted on their first establishment and such of them as adhered to the American cause in their struggle for Independence on the Declaration being made <were> permitted to retain their estates as well as their Titles, and consequently these men are now among the richest in the country. Today we dine with the Governor DeWit Clinton, who is a very superior man – and is well read in Natural History. At his house we shall meet the principal people. The session of Parliament for the state is now sitting and yesterday we went into the Senate which answers to our house of Lords and to the House of Assembly, answering to the Commons. Every thing appeared to be <conducted> in close imitation of our Parliaments and the members seemed well informed men – we heard a <country> gentleman from the western part of the state deliver a very sensible speech in the senate, but in the other house they were reading a long dry Bill – The House in which these sessions as well as the Courts of Justice are held is called the Capitol and is conspicuously erected on the summit of a hill that faces the main street. From the Cupola at its top, we had a magnificent view of the beautiful diversified country around and of the Hudson. The city too is a striking object with its numerous spires. Our next visit was to a museum begun about two years ago in which there is a tolerable collection of minerals & fossils. Geology is becoming a favourite study on this side of the water also and our host the Patroone Mr Van Renslear [sic] prides himself on having taken the same view of a section, which Professor Buckland has done. We concluded our evening by going to a Ball which was fully attended – the women here seemed very superior to those of New York both in appearance manner, and you may suppose we were not a little gratified to find them dressed more after the English costume. Every one evinced the greatest interest in our proceedings – they have all read our former narrative and were <quite> prepared to converse upon the different points. I may mention among other instances of attention that the Proprietor of the Steam Boat when he heard we were going, though unknown to any of us came down and ordered the Captain to let us have a private apartment and separate dinner, as he thought we should not like to join the party at the general table, which is usually a motley assemblage. The passengers were all very attentive and we were delighted to have some opportunity of seeing their character without being constantly exposed to their questioning. I will give you a specimen of one chat I had with one of the leading men among the Country people – You belong to the Expedition that is going so far. Yes. The Captain? Yes. Where do you take the land in our country? Albany. Fine river, this. Yes, Have you any such in your country none so fine? I expect your steam boats are not better than ours. They go as fast but have not the accommodation, yours have. Another took great pains to point out the different spots in which the actions were fought between our troops & theirs, but I found he did it in good part, and therefore felt much obliged to him.
We were in hopes to have found the great Western Canal open at this place, and to have travelled by that – it is however yet bound in ice and we shall have to proceed in the Stages. These would make a poor display by the side of our Coaches, though I have no doubt they are better adapted to the roads in this country than the others would be. I shall however be able to give you a further account of them after experiencing their style of going. It is gratifying to find the perfect good feeling which prevails in this state towards England. They seem to discriminate well as to the characters of the travellers who have come from our side of the Atlantic. They all speak highly of the three members of Parliament who are now travelling here and make judicious remarks as to the difference between these men of education & manner, and the radical adventurers who have preceded them.
The British Consul accompanies us, who is of great assistance to us in pointing out the men of opposite parties, for you must know they have the Aristocratical as well as the Democratical herem but a radical is held in as bad favour as with us. The Consul gave us last night some account of Mr Moore the man who cheated Lord Grosvenor - he says that he brought over a large sum of money, which he nearly spent and when he & his wife died of the Fever that raged at New York in 1822 he ‘left his sons in distress, but some person whom the Consul thinks to be Lord Grosvenor, has relieved them and I think sent for them home. We are to proceed after church tomorrow in two of the stages, on our way to Niagara, from which place I shall probably dispatch this letter.

York the Capital of Upper Canada 7th April 1825. Lake Ontario.
I expected to have had time to give you a full account from this place of our journey through the United States and to Niagara, but we have found the season so unusually early, that we are here in the greatest bustle to get forward and have s[..] leisure to write at all. We were delighted with our journ[ey] and truly gratified to see the appearance of comfort that reigned i[n] the numerous villages which have sprung up within a few years in these wilds, and to which they have given <very> high designations. We slept at Ithca [Ithaca], passed through Syracuse, breakfasted at Brutus, dined at Geneva, a very beautiful town situated on the borders of Seneca Lake. Notwithstanding the wretched state of the roads <through> which I am sure no other vehicle but the American stage could have passed we reached the Falls of Niagara on the sixth day from Albany and then were amply repaid for all our shaking. They are magnificent beyond conception, and while we gazed on them every other recollection was absorbed, admiration awe and reverence filled the mind, and I am sure neither the Poets fire nor the Painters skill can convey an adequate description of this mighty rush of waters. <However> The drawings which I have seen as well as the sketches of my companions Back & Kendall give a faithful outline of the scene, but they cannot convey the effect and thundering noise of this stupendous cataract. At each visit to them we were more & more delighted & astonished, and with regret tore ourselves from them on the third day. We reached Fort George on the borders of this Lake the same evening and after dinner embarked in a Schooner to cross to this place where we breakfasted the following day. Here we found Mr McGillivray and the Canada Commissioners and from their quarters I am now writing. We learnt that the roads between this place & Penetenguishene are in the worst possible state and it is therefore necessary to push on our baggage at once, though the Canadian voyageurs, who are to navigate the canoes have not yet arrived from Montreal. Dr. Richardson & Mr Kendall went forward yesterday. I shall follow them this morning, and leave Mr Back to bring up the voyageurs, who are expected in a few days. I hope therefore we shall be all ready to embark on Lake Huron before the close of this month. Dr Richardson went off in such a hurry that he had not time to write to his wife, and as it may be some time before we have the opportunity of sending another packet. I must beg of you to inform her that he is well, and I must also request you to make excuses for my not writing to Lincolnshire & Greenwich, and to some of our friends, Dr.Fitton, Beaufort & Stokes to whom I have begun letters, but cannot finish them. When we reach our winter quarters we shall have leisure to pay off all old scores.
I hope my dearest Eleanor that your health is now fully re-established and that this letter may find you and our little darling in snug quarters at Tonbridge Wells. Let me beg of you to remain there or in some other air that may suit you, as long as you can, and if you have anything like the weather we have it must be of service to you. I thought of our little girl on the 3rd, she is fast approaching the age of one year. God bless her and yourself. Believe me ever yours most affectionately John Franklin.
Love to all at Greenwich and kind remembrance to our friends.

Do not forget in your letter by the Hudson’s Bay ship to tell me how [?] grand Lady Franklin bore her voyage home and everything about her. You know my anxiety and affection for her. Let me caution you & my friends not to put faith in any reports you may see respecting the Expedition in the newspapers – as you may rely on having a let[ter .. ...y] packet [etc etc]. When does James return to India, and how y[… …nnet]

Addressed: Mrs Franklin
55 Devonshire Street
Portland Place
London (crossed out and 6 Gower Street written above)

(Written in pencil)
account of travels in America Albany -Niagara -New York U.C.
March 26 – April 7 –
Rec.d May 10
Captain Franklin to his first wife
Never received by her
Places
Place (click for further details)Type
Canada 
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