| Transcript or Index | Oct 29th
It was nearly dusk when we entered Haguenau and the mists which had so kindly cleared up to allow us a peep at the prospect were now beginning to gather again. Were it not for the private reasons which caused me to view it with interest, as the place where our brave Coeur de Lion was first brought before the Emperor Henry 6th to be tried by those who had no jurisdiction over him, I should have said that the town contained little worthy of notice. Indeed what I had most wished to ascertain was its locality – and I was pleased to find that the mountains of the black Forest, which had so long delighted us, were scarcely at all faded in the prospect while on the other hand the Vosges opened as we got a little nearer to them. From any building, or elevation, I should think that the Rhine ought to have been visible, or even from the road on a clearer day, but we did not see it. Mr. Renouard, while carving out what he called a pudding, that is a mass of baked apples, told me that the fortifications of Haguenau were such as might be knocked down, avec des pommes cuites. They are probably of not much avail against the tremendous enginry of modern warfare, but to me they did not look quite so contemptible, and the road winds picturesquely round them before it enters the town. The streets are narrow and winding, and without any distinguishing peculiarities of Architecture, yet not altogether without something pleasing & picturesque – to this our situation contributed – the Inn was close to the Church on the one side, and some well dressed women were leaning out of its balconies to look at the Austrian troops assembled round their music in the Grande Place on the other. When we had chosen our apartments (and let me observe by the bye that what between the people’s want of skill in French and want of practise in their business, it was a difficult matter to make them understand that I wished to see them) we descended into the square among the troops. They were mostly dressed in grey great coats in preparation for their march – the officers only were in full uniform, with dark blue coats and bright yellow cuffs and collars. I thought the dress looked handsome. The fair complexions of the men might perhaps have drawn a second look, but the troops seemed so quiet, and the town concerned itself so little about them, that but for the Austrian Eagles on some of the musical instruments, we might have mistaken them for French; and after tiring ourselves with walking thro’ them, we returned to grumble again over a German stove. We supped in the Salle – our fare was plentiful and not amiss; but whenever I asked the fille what was coming, she answered me in the old fashioned phraze [??] which accorded well with her simplicity. “Oh quelque chose de bon.” I dare to say that mine hostess had exerted all the secrets of her kitchen for the benefit of the English travellers.
Friday Octr 30
About 4 oclock in the morning Papa heard the March of the Austrians leaving the town – and said that it had a very fine effect in the dark. First the music was heard, and then it faded in the distance and only the heavy tramp of many feet disturbed the silence, then another band came on, and faded like the first till all were past. About six, the baggage waggons set forward, but I slept backward and knew nothing of all this.
The morning was raw and uncomfortable. We went into the Church, which had nothing very attractive without, and was remarkably plain within – the unadorned Gothic groins being raised over simple round columns, probably much older than the time of Richard. The only thing worthy attention was the pulpit. It was much simpler in ornament but in form very like those at Berne & Basle. I believe it was of stone, but skilfully painted to imitate dark grey and white marble. On the side of the staircase was represented the entire story of St. George and the Dragon – Sabina is standing at a little distance I think under the orange tree, with her hands crossed. The Saint has already wounded the dragon with his spear, the handle of which is broken, and is about to drive his sword into its mouth.
We had been surprized to find the Hotel de la poste royale entirely free from soldiers, tho’ at a time when their discipline might have been relaxed, and when they were standing idle in multitudes under its windows. But a paper hung in the Salle and which I noticed when I descend<ed> to breakfast explained the cause. It was printed in Russian, French, German & English & contained the orders of the Duke of Wellington Generallissimo of the allied forces, and under him of the Generals of the different nations “That as it was far from being the wish of the Allied powers that the presence of the Army of Occupation should interfere with the communication between one part of the Country with another, public or private it was ordered – that the post houses be exempt from billets – that no provisions or forage be taken from the post-houses, or contributions levied – that no post horses or carriages belonging to the post house be pressed into the service of the army; and that officers or couriers belonging to the army who shall hire post horses, shall pay at the same rate with other travellers, and pay at each stage before their departure.
Such were the considerate regulations which provided at once for the comfort and security of travellers, and so well were they observed that not one Austrian so much as entered the Inn while we were there. The Chambermaid (who changed her dress in an adjoining room with the door wide open, and totally regardless of any attention which I might pay to her,) stood with her companion to see a part of the Austrians march by. As she spoke German I could not tell what she said, but I did not perceive in her countenance any expression either of pain or pleasure at their departure. On lifting the end of a table cloth which I thought covered our breakfast, I saw a quantity of flowers and other preparations for a feast. It was perhaps the French troops who were expected in the afternoon.
The horses for the next stage (in consequence of the army regulations) were here put into our bill for the first and only time. We left the Haguenau about 10 oclock – returned for near a post along the Strasbourg road and then took a cross road which the postillion gave some reason for preferring to the regular one, towards Hochfeld [Hochfelden now]. I believe the country to have been tolerably beautiful but the fog was so thick that we could not judge of it. At the ascent of many a hill a little brightness on its summit flattered us with the hopes of a brighter afternoon – but the gleam was but for a moment. It was not till we got to Saverne that we were astonished to find ourselves at once in sunshine and at the foot of the Vosges. We had felt it cold ever since we left the Jura and particularly so this morning, but as we wound up these heights it became so warm that after first throwing open our calêche that we might feel the benefit of the beams, we closed it again to avoid being roasted. It seemed strange that we could find warmth and clear weather only on the mountains which are usually celebrated as the abode of cold and mist. After being so long in the Jura, and after describing it so minutely I have little to say of the Vosges and as we only crossed their tail we were not long among them. The scene was fine, and the woods of Oak Ash and Elm, deeply tinged with the last hues of Autumn, were a strong contrast to the unchanging green of the piny Jura. On several of the neighbouring heights were the ruins of Castles, which looked promising, and reminded us of what Mr Arnold had said, but we had neither time nor power to explore them.
By half past 3 we got down the hills and on to Phalsbourg – which being the last of the frontier towns of France on this side, closes its gates like Brisach and Strasbourg at ½ past six – but to avoid the inconvenience which might arise from this the post House is placed on the outside of the town, and seems to be a comfortable Inn. A large party of ladies and gentlemen walked out of it, and planted themselves, very politely just opposite to it, to stare at the outlandish creatures.
We slept at Sarrebourg, two posts beyond Phalsbourg, where we found a pretty good Inn. One <of our> rooms contained both stove and chimney, but the stove was just before the Chimney so that after several vain attempts we were forced to abandon the latter.
Saturday Octr 31
We were off betimes notwithstanding that our old friend fog had resumed his rain <reign>. We past in these three days journey, the Meuse, the Moselle the Meurthe, and I believe the Soane also without being well able to see them but what we did distinguish of the country from Haguenau, to Nancy, was more hilly, the road more winding, the country more planted, the villages larger and more prosperous, than in other parts of France, in short much superior to the neighbourhood of Paris. Added to which we had now bade adieu to the repulsive countenances of Switzerland and Alsace, and thought every woman beautiful that we met.
About three oclock we got to Luneville [Lunéville now] and were surprized to find a large & handsome town where we had expected only a village. The royal Palace appeared grand and spacious – and we walked half a mile to get to a Church, whose singular steeple, being neither Gothic nor Grecian, had puzzled us much at a distance. This Church was of what Papa calls french Architecture – supported on Ionic columns, very lofty, and with the Centre Aisle just double the width of the sides – the end semicircular, & a front adorned with Ionic pilasters. A small dome was over the key of the cross and four tablets bore latin inscriptions one of which purported that the Church owed its existence to the [“munificence”?] of the unfortunate Stanislaus, ex king of Poland.
[added on left-hand page – not sure where she intends this to go]
I had forgotten to notice a dispute which we had at the [left blank] with the postmaster who insisted on our paying the whole of the third Horse for the next stage and on my refusing to do it unless I saw himself came out in no courteous mood, paid no attention to my remonstrance that in other places where there was the right of the third horse we had only paid the two at 40 sous, but [made?] an attempt to take the horses from the carriage, & threatened that we should not leave the place till we engaged to pay the whole of the third horse. We afterwards wrote to M. Le Marquis de Herbouville Directeur général des poste. The postmasters conduct seemed the more strange, as at Saverre the master told me we must pay the 3d horse, that was the two at 40 – but we were always charged the whole of the third horse wherever it was authorized, till we reached Rheims.
It was this day also that we were put into the greatest peril we experienced …
[carries on to left-hand page of next pages]… on our journey, by the unruly conduct of a horse, that was put into the Carriage. He threw his rider and like to have overturned us, or have broken the Caleche to pieces. A number of men who were standing round prevented this and got him out – but they must have known his tricks & ought not to have put us thus in jeopardy.
The principal streets of Luneville are straight and handsome and the grande place which contains the post house etc is spacious. The whole seems busy and prosperous. We had driven along an avenue at the side, and under the walls of the town for such a distance that we thought, that like Phalsbourg we should have changed horses without entering, and were agreeably surprized on driving into it.
The fog grew thicker and thicker as we rode on, and on our last stage into Nancy was so dense that we did not feel ourselves very safe – besides which it was already sunset – but to go back was more than to go on, and we had careful [sic] driver. We entered Nancy through a very long suburb. In it is the Church of the Dame de bon Secours, which contains the tomb of Stanislaus. This, tout en marbre is one of the chief lions of the place, but it may be imagined that we did not stop to see it.
The Hotel royal was so much superiour [sic] in its style of furniture to anything we had seen except at Rouen or Paris, that we felt ourselves really in a great town. We were very well attended, and not extravagantly charged considering. Our floors being parquetted, and our chairs and sophas covered with yellow plush, but the night was intensely cold. We met <in> the Salle with a french gentleman and Lady, and their son. They arrived just before us.
Sunday Novr 1st
The fog was partly dissipated, but the day was cold and gloomy, and the streets more than ordinarily dirty. This did not however prevent us from discovering Nancy to be one of the finest towns we had yet seen. It appears to be principally modern. The streets like those at Luneville were straight and at right angles to each other; and there are handsome triumphal arches at most of the entrances to the City. I think we saw six. One near the Hotel Royal, was at the end of a square or green, planted with several rows of young trees, which I think will form in a few years a delightful promenade. Nancy contains many Churches – the first which we visited was that of St.. Sebastian which has not the two fine tho’ whimsical steeples of that at Lunéville, but is otherwise its fac simile. This Church has one of its fronts into another large square <planted with trees> which I have no doubt is delightful in the summer. We next went to the Cathedral. It is more in the style of St. Sulpice within, built on square piers instead of Columns with one arch of the nave beyond the transept, as is not unfrequent, and the Choir having a flat window before the semicircle which terminates it. The <principal front> is ascended by a magnificent flight of steps. It has two good steeples, not so fantastic as those of Lunéville, tho’ built probably about the same time, and looks directly down to the Grande Place itself which is indeed a noble thing. Its entrances are all secured by handsome iron railings and gateways, which in the time of the Princes of Lorraine were probably closed at night. Two of the streets which open from this Grande Place look down to <a> triumphal arch. The Square itself contains the Hotels de la Préfecture, de la Police, Le Thèatre &c – and on the North side a handsome opening leads to the palace. On each side of this opening are magnificent iron railings and with fountains adorned with large groupes of sculpture before them and gardens behind. A semicircular colonnade conducts on each side to the Palace, and has formerly been adorned with 26 busts, probably of the most illustrious of the House of Lorraine. But the revolutionary Jury had cut off the heads of every one. The front of the palace itself is handsome and the entrance up a noble flight of steps. <In> each side of the semicircular are archways one opening only into a street, and the other into an extensive public walk or park, which I dare to say is delightful in better weather, and if I remember right has also a triumphal arch in view.
We went thro’ the Gate of the City by which we had entered, it is massy and still in good repair but seems to be one of the very few existing remains of an older city. We went onto the ramparts in two places, but the ground was too wet to walk on, and the weather not clear enough to shew us anything of the country.
In rambling about we came to a curious gateway, not of pure Gothic, but pleasing and curious in its Architecture. Over this gateway was an Ape in a Cardinals hat and tippet. This gateway had probably been an entrance to a part of the old Ducal palace and reminded me of what we had seen at Dijon. It formed now a part of the barracks of the Soldiers and could not be opened. We peeped thro’ the decayed wooden gates which closed it up, and saw that nothing remained beyond but part of a groined passage disfigured with dirt enough to sicken curiosity.
I think we were also in another Church but I have no distinct remembrance of it. In all that we visited preparations were making for the celebration of the Fêtes des Morts, or solemn service for the dead which I believe is reckoned one of the most imposing parts of the Catholic ceremonials. A large black canopy, with 4 black curtains painted inside and out with numbers of white tongues which I believe are intended to represent the spirits of the deceased, was drawn up to a considerable height under the central arch of the transepts. A large bier, and apparently a coffin, both covered with velvet, and if I remember correctly also adorned with tongues, rose underneath this canopy, and was shaded by the 4 curtains above mentioned. In the Cathedral, four white figures stood at the corners, but in every place the bier was surrounded by abundance of tapers, <&> the Church hung with black. The whole had certainly a very scenic effect.
Madlle George was now performing for a few nights at Nancy, and was to appear this Night as Aménaïde, in the Tancrède of Voltaire. We had not seen this actress as she had never been at Paris during either of our visits there, so we determined on going. We thought we were in good time but found the House pretty full and were obliged to be contented with <a> third row, from the rudeness of the two ladies who sate in the front, and pushed their chairs so back, as to make it impossible for any one to occupy the bench behind them. I am inclined to think that the people of Lorraine are not very well disposed towards the English, for there did not seem any wish on the part of any of those around us even to appear civil, and we noticed this the more from the apparent kindness with which we had generally been received elsewhere. Nancy is rather out of the way, and has received but a small rill from the flood of English which have overwhelmed France for we <were> told, rather as a matter of wonder, of 2 English boys who were at school in the town. I ought to notice that on the entrance to the city our passport was not demanded neither was our name taken at the Inn.
We were not much amused with the Play. Tancred was a sad vulgar fellow, and Mlle George ranted most abominably. Some parts of her acting might be fine, but she was never pleasing, and I could see nothing of the beauty which I had heard celebrated. She is a large, and I thought her a coarse woman. I think I have heard that this character does not shew her to advantage, but I think it very unlikely that in any part she should bear a comparison with Mlle Du Chesnois. The French Lady whom we had met the Night before, was in the Salle on our return to the Hotel – and like us disappointed in Mlle Georges.
Monday Novr 2d 19jpg
We walked a little more about the town – looked again at what had pleased us yesterday, peeped into a Gothic Church whose tower we had observed the day before, and found the tapers lighted round the Coffin and a great number of persons assembled for the Office des Morts – it was an impressive scene – like the lying in state of some great personage. We looked again at the gate I have mentioned got our passport visé [?] at the Préfecture and the Bureau de la Police, and then, thinking we had pretty well seen Nancy, left it about one oclock, intending to sleep at Vancouleurs (the place where Joan of Arc declared her mission) on our way to Troyes. The first stage presented nothing remarkable, tho’ the country was hilly and not unpleasant, but on approaching its close we were surprized to find two fine Gothic towers before us, and the Church of Toul superior to most that we had seen. The front is remarkably fine; the towers good tho’ more modern and evidently repaired in a later style than they were originally built in. The interior of the Church is rich, & handsome, and of purer taste than the greater part of what we had met with, but I had not time for particular remark. We spent a quarter of an hour in examining it, and papa, much to my surprize, did not decide on staying here all night. If I am not mistaken he has been dissatisfied at giving only one day to Churches of much inferior merit.
From Toul we had a stage of three posts to Vancouleurs, a circumstance which made us feel no pleasure in finding that we had a horse who became very restive when he had to go either up or down hill, and was not over well behaved on plain ground. This was the less agreeable as our road was one of continual ascent and descent, and one half of our journey must necessarily be in the dark. The Evening had just closed upon us, and we were sitting back in our carriage, wondering to find it so mild and fair on a November night, when the postillion stopt, and began to take off his horses. We supposed that not being over well satisfied with the conduct of that he rode, he was making some arrangement for an exchange, and were congratulating ourselves, when he asked where we want to sleep – “At Vancouleurs” – “À Vancouleurs! Mon Dieu! Vous êtes sur la route de Paris” – “Non!” said I, “nous allons à Troyes.” Our mistake soon became too evident. I had told our first postillion we were going to Troyes, but there is so seldom any power of getting out of the road in France, that I forgot to repeat this at every stage, and the roads meeting at Toul, the postillion imagined every one must be going to Paris. The Post house at which we now were was quite solitary, and evidently not an Inn, so that we had only to ask where we could sleep, and were told that at the next stage “Void” [I think this is what it says – there is a small town by that name nearby] there was a place which wrote up “Ici on loge à pied et à cheval”. Here then we went, and found ourselves, as we had often done before more comfortable than in a regular inn, tho’ our chamber was within another which was occupied, and one pounced [?] upon beds and snorers at every turn. We were waited on with cheerful attention, by the daughter of the House, but we were no gainers <in our supper> by her taking me for a frenchwoman, for when in the course of conversation I told her I was English, she said she would have brought us potatoes if she had known it. A good many Prussians had been quartered in the village, but there were now only 15 – two officers, their wives families & children. There were all to go tomorrow, and I did not hear any complaints of them.
Tuesday – Novr 3d
We were only a post and a half out of our road to Troyes, but this was sufficient to change Papa’s mind, and decide him on going direct to Chalons which we expected to have reached more circuitously. We were therefore off early – and had a pleasant ride the country being more interesting than usual – frequently among chalk hills not much unlike the ridge of St Catherine’s in form, but smaller. These at a distance appeared barren, but we found them to be covered with vines, of which however the stalks now only remained.
We past thro’ Ligny, the headquarters of the Prussians, and the scene of many of their battles. The troops were now assembled in the Square for their march, and confirmed our suspicions that several soldiers whom we had overtaken on our way were marching there to rendezvous. We drove thro’ them well pleased at the opportunity of seeing another of the departing armies.
The posts on this road were either unusually short, or our horses swifter, for instead of finding the time exceed our calculation we got over them much quicker than we expected. We found Bar le Duc a picturesque town with some steep chalk hills rising abruptly behind it. We had intended to sleep at Joinville, but when we got to one stage beyond Bar le Duc, we were informed that there was no inn there and that we should be too late to get on to Vitry sur Merne. Besides Monsieur had been travelling this road, and had employed all the horses. The town of [blank space left] was in gala on his account being drest out with white flags &c, and as there was a pretty good inn we decided to stay. We found the <town> tolerably large & well built, but containing nothing remarkable.
Wednesday – Novr 4th
We were again off early, and met with nothing particular till we came near Chalons – between 3 & 4 oclock. We were travelling along a broad road shaded with fine trees, <and wondering we did not see Chalons> when suddenly we turned into what seemed a cross road, and found ourselves at its gates. The town is large, and we drove on our entrance past the Prefecture, the Post Office and many public handsome buildings, but on the whole it is not well built and gave no idea of consequence or wealth equal to Reims. There are three Inns. We drove, I think to the Cloche on the recommendation of the postillion <but on the outside it appeared small & [uncomfortable??]. Here I saw some tolerable rooms, tho’ rather worse than what we met with in general – a small & coquettish girl who shewed me them knew nothing of the price, so I was forced to apply to the master, who frightened us away by asking 6 francs apiece for our dinner.
We went to another Inn which was almost next door. It was built on a very usual plan – with a square court – the offices [below?] and an open gallery round the quadrangle above, which formed the passage to the apartments. This was tapestried with Nasturtiums and looked rather inviting on the outside – but we soon found that as the principal part of the house was undergoing repairs, the rooms we must put up with were very indifferent, indeed the worst that we met with anywhere. But then Papa liked his supper and that was one good thing. We afterwards saw another inn, which externally promised better than either of those which we tried, but we discovered it too late, and could not help thinking that Chalons must be little in the way of travellers.
There was still an hour of daylight so we walked out to look at the Churches. The Cathedral, which is a fine building tho’ far from being equal to Toul, gave us a long and weary walk to get at it – tho’ its two unequal spires seemed straight before us at many a turn. We spent an hour in it, and then, omitting to take the right bridge, had to walk along the Marne for a great distance. It was but a small river; and tho’ partially shaded with trees the walk was not pleasant, and brought us thro’ some indifferent parts of the town. We were more interested in another Church which was close to it. Had it been in England I should have called it Saxon – it was very antient, with round arches [or] the earliest of the pointed style. I should have liked an opportunity of sketching the front, or a door which was very fine.
Thursday Novr 5th
We looked again into this church – where the Office des Morts was now performing. The nave was much crowded, but I got a chair directly behind the Altar, where unseen and without giving any offence I could make a sketch of one of the Chapels. I think there were three. I then went to join papa at the Cathedral, where he completed his measurements, and on our return we peeped into another Church which was more in the cinquecento style. A broad flat stone attracted my notice on the pavement, where I found that it covered the remains of St. Alpin the founder of the Church.
I did not feel that we saw Chalons thoroughly. The season was late and we began to fear a permanent change of weather. We were disappointed in not finding letters, and could not now hope to hear till we got to Lille; besides which our rooms were too uncomfortable to make us wish to pass another night there. I was disappointed in Chalons both with respect to its size and its buildings which did not at all agree with its importance on the map. The public buildings were certainly good, but there was nothing uncentred [??] or grand, and it fell as much below my expectations as Nancy had risen above them. I made one remark, that the practise of joining the wife’s name to that of the husband seemed more general here than I had noticed it to be in other parts of France. As we drove into the town up the high street, I think 2 thirds of the shops bore united names.
It was about two oclock when we set off for Reims. I have nothing to record of the country. Champagne and Picardy are as little beautiful as any tracts I have travelled thro’, but the day was fine and pleasant. We came upon Reims in an opposite direction to the approach from Paris, and in consequence, tho’ the Church of St. Remy looked at us for two posts before we reached the city, we did not see the Cathedral which stands on lower ground, till we were close upon it. I never <saw> St. Remy to such an advantage as from this road, and had not remembered it as so large a Church, tho’ I retained all its features in my memory.
We had <had> little reason to be satisfied with the charges at the Moulinet, but then our accommodations at the Hotel de [Bourbon?] were still less to our taste, and the situation of the Moulinet was certainly tempting, so we decided upon it and flattered ourselves that by making a bargain we had guarded against extortion. Indeed we found afterwards that another inn was established in the town which seemed to have lowered the prices at the Moulinet.
We gave our remaining daylight to the Cathedral – and all my former impressions of its superior grandeur were confirmed. I admired anew, and by the same dim light when I had admired it before, the fine view of the Nave and the West windows from behind the Choir.
We had some excellent sweet still champagne at our dinner.
Friday – Novr 6th
We went to our print Merchant, & bought some wretched things which however we were glad to procure as memoranda. We then called on M de Ruinart, who was very civil and pleasant, and presented us with a History of Reims, recently published and containing I believe all the prints which we had just purchased. Her mother came in while we were there, and they both chatted with us in English. M de Ruinart invited us to eat a meagre dinner with her that day, promising to add a pudding to her friday's fayre, if we would come, but we declined. I understood that she expected a Party in the evening at Brimont among which were the principal authorities of the town.
We next went to St Jacques, near the Porte de Paris, and found it a curious old fabric, without much beauty in general but interesting from some singularities. The transepts are two beautiful Corinthian Chapels, not agreeing with any other part of the Church which approaches to the Anglo Norman.
We had next a long walk to St Remy – Papa recognized in its front the ugly old Church which he did not wish to be troubled with walking to, especially in so hot a day as the present, but he was much pleased with the inside which he seemed to have forgotten. I remembered it perfectly and had great pleasure in seeing it again, as well as another view of the fine figures which adorn the tomb of St Remy.
We paid our farewell visit to the Cathedral while our horses were putting to, and left Reims before 2 oclock, but not without having reason again to complain of the charges at the Moulinet – but the accommodations there are certainly good.
That which is unattainable always possesses a strong interest in one’s eyes, and the circumstance of the road to Laon having been impassable at the time of our former visit, from the havoc made in it by Prussian Artillery, made me now enter upon it with double pleasure. M de Ruinart had told us that in consequence of the dryness of the season it was now safe, tho’ rather jolting and that we should see such ruts as we had never beheld, until we came to the Aisne, and exchanged the clayey basin of the Marne for firmer soil. The ruts were indeed deep, and I have no doubt but that wet weather would have made them terrible, but I am inclined to think M de Ruinart no very adventurous traveller, and to doubt whether even at the time of our former journey, it were worse than that by which she sent us – to Montdidier. I never saw such a road.
Our last stage into Laon was a long one and in the dark. We had a pleasant chattering postillion, but he chattered more than he got on, and had not the night not been delightful we might have wished for better speed. After some time we saw on our left a considerable hill, with what appeared to be a Castle on it <filling up a breach>. We had approached it for some time and appeared to be passing it when I asked the postillion what it was. Oh, c’est lui, c’est Laon – Montez vous à La Ville – in about a mile more we began the ascent which I can compare to nothing but that of Dover castle, for Mont Cassel was a hillock to it. The town is entirely built on an [eminence?] and it was the walls, joined to the four towers of the Cathedral, which gave it such a picturesque and castellated appearance. We stopped at a good inn close to a round tower, and got ourselves not uncomfortably accommodated in one immense chamber with three beds.
[below is a drawing of the hill]
Saturday – Novr 7
Was hot and fine as a morning in the dog days. We heard some french troops called over under our windows, and then set off with the intention of finding our way to the place where we had began to ascend the hill, and thence to make a sketch of the town. We turned wrong in the first instance – and got down to the Church of St Martins which is partly in ruins. We saw also its outside, and it excited our curiosity, but we could not get into the enclosure. From this place we went onto the ramparts to enjoy a fine view into the plain and passing thro’ a gate<way> we were about to descend the hill when the absence of a gate which a man had got half a franc for pretending to keep open for us, shewed it was not the way by which we had mounted. We asked and found we were quite at the wrong end of town – so we had to go round by the ramparts (a very pleasant walk by the bye) to enter the town, pass by our inn and proceed in another direction. I regret the blunder as it fatigued us and obliged us to take a nearer point of view for our sketches than we should have otherwise have chosen. We were obliged to stand in the middle of the high road and not in the very best place we might there have attained, but it is impossible to be five minutes in the sun.
We clambered up the hill, a nearer but fatiguing way to the Cathedral which is very different from all I have seen – being a complete cross, the transepts deep, and the choir as long as the nave. The pillars are alternately round, and round with six detached colonnets round them, that meet in a square base. Three colonnets, ringed like the Bamboo, spring like the capitals of the round pillars, (which are of debased Corinthian), and five from the clustered pillars. These ascend to [These ascend to is repeated at the top of the next page] the top of the second gallery where they terminate in a simple capital and ribs branch off to form the groins of the ceiling. Between the pillars are first a plain gothic arch – above that another enclosing too [sic] other gothic arches with a column between that – and above again three small round arches, supported on columns, and having much the effect of our Saxon Architecture – this is what I called the 2d gallery. There is a plain gothic window above, but it seemed not to form part of the Architecture.
[left page:] In the clustered column the six colonnets had bases which overhung the square or general base.
There is a tower over the nave, and one over the centre of the cross. The transepts have also been intended to have two towers each – but only one is built upon each of them, and they are rather smaller than the central towers, but it requires attention to perceive the difference. We were told that the transepts were not found strong enough to permit the Architect to execute the whole of his design.
We spent nearly the rest of our day in the Cathedral and got into part of an old cloister, which had however not one thing worth seeing, but an old low Saxon door in an odd corner, with the nail head ornament, and either the zigzag or the billet moulding – but alas my memory is indistinct.
As we returned the streets were impassable at once from the soldiers again mustered beneath our windows for the roll call and from a market which was now in full tide. The soldiers were french, & had I believe marched in to replace the Prussians.
We treated ourselves after dinner with a bottle of excellent white Burgundy, which we were told that the Duke of Kent, or some other English Duke (they are little nice about names) had found very medicinal two or three days before, and ordered some dozens of it.
Sunday – Novr 8th
[Was wet?] and Papa would not let me go out, tho’ we had to wait intolerably long for our horses. We had an uncomfortable ride to St Quentins where we stopped at the Hotel d’Angleterre in the Grande Place, where we found the chambermaids uncivil, the waiter a pert coxcomb and the charges high.
Monday Novr 9 –
Was fair but damp. We looked first at the Hotel de Ville, which we could see nearly as well from the Inn, as it was on one side of the Grande Place. It was much in the style of some of those in the Netherlands. The Church papa called on the outside a great Barn but was delighted with it within. He thought it much like his drawings of Beauvais – it has the same tall pillars, the same narrow arches in a word the same long proportions and as papa said also the same delicacy and beauty of design and execution. I thought it fine, but did not admire it so much as he did.
We left St Quentins about 12 – rain soon came on, and our ride thro’ Beauvois [?] to Peronne was not made more pleasant by it – it was itself a sort of cross <path> thro’ ploughed fields, which looked like a succession of trenches and bad enough. Just as we got beyond the gates of St Quentin, we found that we had left behind petitpanier as papa called it. It was a beautiful little basket, which I had bought at Berne, and brought so far with great care and without accident. It was wrapped up in paper, and had another small basket within it. The postillion refused to go back with us, but detached one of his horses and rode back himself, leaving us in the Carriage. In less than half an hour he returned, bringing the petitpanier, but stripped of its paper and robbed of the internal basket. I was very angry, and wrote two or three times afterwards to desire <to mine host> that the other basket might be sent to us at Calais, but in vain – I suppose that some of his uncivil servants had appropriated it – this was the only instance of dishonesty we met with in France.
We entered the post yard at Beauvois thro’ what appeared a back gate and the postillion had to smack his whip for some time before it opened to him. I got out to wrap up petitpanier, and found the mistress and about half a dozen women visitors at dinner, who were all very civil in giving me paper & pins, placing me near the fire offering me a glass of ratafia, as it was handed round, and indeed shewing me every possible pleasant attention. They seemed quite delighted & astonished when I offered half a frank for their paper and civilities and begged I would stay by the fire till the horses came from the field. They had evidently not been spoiled by a multiplicity of travellers, and I was an object of curiosity as well as kindness. The post houses where they are not inns, seem generally to belong to a higher order of farmers, and I was often surprized to observe in their inner rooms more of comfort and better furniture than among those which aspired to loftier rank. But in the inner apartment of this house I was nevertheless agreeably surprized to find four prints from Westall’s familiar subjects. They were not his prints, nor equal to them, but they were copies, and not ill executed. I named this to the party, and said that the Artist who designed them was one of our most intimate friends; they seemed much pleased with my noticing their prints and begged that I would tell my friends that I had seen them there, as it would gratify him. Soon after I had returned to the Caleche the party came out, not in an impudent or familiar way, and began looking at our carriage, examining it, and making intelligent and pleasant remarks to us, with many invitations to come out, and sit by the fire.
At length our horses came and we got off. Our postillion charged us half a post for going back for the basket – 30 sous for a bit of leather with which he had strapped up our sabot, and was discontented that papa did not give him much more.
We entered Peronne by a different entrance from that which brought us to it before, & in spite of the recommendations of our postillion <and others> persisted in going to our old inn of the Grand Cerf. Here we were received by the same girl whose pertness and beauty we had noticed before. Her pertness seemed abated, but her beauty was quite gone, she was grown deplorably thin and two years had made her look at least 10 years older. In imitation of the hotels of Paris & Nancy each apartment had its price, though it was evident that not one third of the range surrounding the gallery was likely to be full, she would not abate a sous. Papa had his old apartment. I would not pay for a double bedded room, and so was forced to be at a little distance from him. The Inn had been whitewashed and repaired and was certainly very clean, but the other Inns looked as well that I have some doubt if it be so well frequented as formerly. Our wine was high priced and very bad.
Tuesday Novr 10
The town was damp and dirty as before but we peeped again at the Church with the oblong tower. Lord Glenbervie stopped at our Inn to breakfast, on his way to Paris – and we departed soon after Amiens having great reason to be dissatisfied with our bill. Our road to Amiens agreeably disappointed us. The country was cheerless and monotonous as before but the village of Foucaucourt, and most of those thro’ which we passed had a novel appearance of prosperity and seemed to have been more than half rebuilt. We got into Amiens about three, to the Hotel de France, and part of our old apartments. We visited the Cathedral before dinner, and papa as before was disposed to prefer it to Reims – but I am constant, tho’ I admired it greatly. I think I have nothing to add to my former observations.
Wednesday – Novr 11
Was very wet, yet I contrived to chuse a shawl for Made de L’Anglois and to get another peep at the Cathedral, which papa took many measures of. We were not off till after two – and were driven our first stage by the same postillion we had had before – and who as before was dissatisfied and impertinent tho’ he receives half a post royal. Amiens seems to have been more spoiled by the English than any other town – more than Paris.
We could not get beyond Doulens, the 2d stage, where we found a comfortable Country Inn, and were well accommodated for the first & only time, with two good rooms on the rez de chausseé.
[added on the left-hand page:] NB – not quite so much annoyed with beggars as at our former visit but enough so to confirm Amiens in its title of the City of Mendicity.
Thursday – Novr 12
It was barely 8 when we got into our Cabriolet and drove off for Arras thro’ Lens – and soon passed the road which [?leads?] direct to Donkerque. As we approached Lens we observed for some time a building far on our right, which I thought at first must be Arras, tho’ it was directly to the North instead of the North West. It proved to be a ruined Abbey and we did not approach it. I wished we had had leisure to go out of our road for it.
We reached Arras before 3 o clock, & meant to have gone farther, but we found it so fine a town, and the Hotel de L’Europe so uncommonly good an Inn that we were tempted to stay. The Architecture of Arras reminded me of Brussells – many of the houses have their gable ends turned to the street, with the roof like a flight of steps, or ornamented in various ways. Both the Grande et petit Place are spacious squares – the houses having stuccoed fronts with ionic pilaters [pilasters? Spelling mistake?] running down them, the Gables decorated with pilasters and shells and scrolls, and every kind of cinquecento ornament. The houses are ended in colonnades below. The pediments are of all heights and sizes according to the width of the house, which has sometimes only one small window, & sometimes three wide ones but the arches are all of one height and width and supported on slender columns, so as to form a regular arcade. The whole has a wild and not unpleasing effect. I endeavoured to sketch some of the houses in the Grande Place, but had immediately a crowd of at least 50 boys and children of a larger growth around me, and was forced to finish my sketch as I walked, by stealth, or from some of the houses in the petite Place. In the Grande Place is the Hotel de ville, much in the style of that at St Quentin – with a tall steeple which as we approached the City looked like a triumphal column, but proved to be a very narrow but not inelegant gothic tower, with something of a spire at the top. I would have sketched it too but for the crowd.
Between the grande and petite place is a Church which had some beautiful bits about the doorway and may have been a fine one within but I fancy the revolution had destroyed its roof, for its present cieling [sic] is only halfway up the Arches.
We saw the outside of the new Cathedral which is building, and a pleasant walk on the ramparts with a view of plenty of windmills. I have not seen many towns which on the whole have pleased me better than Arras.
Friday – Novr 13 –
We spent some time in the Cathedral a large building now erecting in the Ionic style – or something like it – for it is not regular. I fancy the old Cathedral was knocked down by the revolution. The present was begun some years ago & is recently resumed. It will be a fine building tho’ I could not well judge of it in its present state, and when I had calculated the beams which supported the scaffolding to be 228, I had nothing more to do while papa was measuring the Church.
It was <near> one when we left Arras – and 4 when we got to Lille. We entered by the Porte de Paris, and for the last post, nay the last two posts were absolutely distracted by the infinity of Windmills. There was no rest for the eyes – whichever way one turned they seemed too numerous to be counted and all in motion. Before, behind to each side, in the town, behind the town on the hills, or close to the road it was always the same and absolutely made our heads ache – there could not be less than 300 for I counted 70 over and over again in fresh succession. I have named them in my journal of our former journey, but had not then such a dose of them.
They are chiefly oilmills. Some extract oil from the seed of the poppy, but the greater part is made from a plant which they called Colver looking very like Scotch Cail [Kale?] in the fields. We had seen a great deal of it on our journey and from the similarity of name called it Colewort. From this plant an indifferent oil is made which is used in Cookery.
We got, as seemed to be our fate, a part of old apartments at the Hotel de l’Europe – its master was dead, his eldest son and his wife now kept the Hotel, & John Ferru, the youngest brother, who spoke such good English was married & settled in the Café de Foy in the grande place, but he came up to dinner in compliment to my father. The Table d’Hote was admirably served and well attended. It is certainly the best I have ever met with in France.
We found at Lille plenty of letters and good news, which made us send our linen to the Blanchisseuse, <or rather Blanchisseur> with better heart to wait for its purification.
Saturday – Novr 14 –
We visited the elegant Church of St Maurice, took some sketches of it, walked a good deal about the town in spite of the dirt, made some purchases, and returned home to dine at the table d’hote and write letters. We talked some time with a short frenchman, with <a> deep bayonet scar (at least it was threecornered over one eye and who had been a prisoner in Scotland for two years. He seemed to have been much pleased with the Country and the hospitable treatment which he met from the natives, only that they were too fond of boiled legs of mutton. Edinburgh seemed to have delighted him and he thought it a finer city than Paris. The situation was magnificent – and the sansculottes were a very fine race of men. Papa asked him how he liked the Scotch fashion of spending their Sunday. “A Mourir” was the expressive reply.
He and his fellow prisoners often beguiled their captivity with music, and one Sunday morning they had taken up their instruments, little thinking of the scandal they were giving, till the neighbours came running to testify their displeasure. This man had been in most of the Spanish battles till he was taken prisoner at Corunna – or as he called it La Couronne. He had never set foot on England but saw and admired the works at Chatham and what he saw in his way thither – the vessel in which he was had waited about three weeks in the Thames till arrangements were made for his exchange.
Sunday – Novr 15
There was to be a grand trial of skill between two fencing masters of the new school from Paris (who were the Challengers) and those belonging to the different regiments stationed at Lille. The exhibition was to last two hours, and to conclude with a trial of skill between the two Parisian masters, after which the challengers would give the “Assaut d’armes” to any one who might be present himself. The Ladies were invited to assist at the Spectacle – and it was to taken [sic] place in the Assembly room of the Grand Hotel du Cirque, reputed the first in Lille. It now belonged to Madame Ferru, the Mother of our host, who did not receive casual travellers but lodged and boarded in a splendid style, those who engaged by the month or year. But the most interesting fact about this hotel, was the cirque from which it derived its name – an island mount in the middle of the garden, which ascended by a green labyrinth, terminating in an amphitheatre where an ample walk was enclosed by green arcades or bowers commanding a good view of the town. The arena was now planted with vegetables, but shewed that a platform had been erected over it, and we understood that in the summer Evenings, balls, and other entertainments al fresco were frequented there by the first society of Lille. This mount or cirque, was formerly a roman station, and is supposed to have given its name of L’Isle to the town. It was the desire of seeing it, rather than the fencing which tempted us thither.
The population of france [sic] having been all military, and fencing much in vogue in the french army – a great number of persons were collected in the long assembly room. Notwithstanding the invitation to the Ladies, but one was there when I entered and I wished myself out – but a few more came in afterwards. The challengers were drest in white, and were both extremely handsome men, the Lillois were in blue and seemed to have seen service. The exhibition was new to me, but I did not find it very interesting, and we staid but for half of it. I was most surprized from the perspiration & heat of the combatants to find that it was so great an exertion. After we departed I learned the fencing master of the regiment in garrison at Lille, contended with one of the parisians, and puzzled his adversary at first by fencing with his left hand; and afterwards that the two Challengers tried their skill together, with much animation, as their reputation depended on it. In the meantime we had hired a fiacre, and were refreshing our ideas of St Etienne, the esplanade – Ste Catherine & Ste Anne, but I believe that all I can say is in my former journal.
In the Evening we went to the play – our places having been taken in the morning and kept by two boys. In the french provincial theatres a considerable space is always reserved for the Authorities & is generally empty. The military and others, who subscribe by the season nearly fill the rest of the house so that there is little room left for strangers, and we understood, as at Nancy that there was little disposition to accommodate them. The theatre is of a good size – superior to all the provincial french theatres I have seen, and to some of the Parisian ones. Indeed I understood that it disputed precedency with Bourdeaux. It was well lighted, and the company well dressed, and the actors, dresses and decorations were what might have been expected from the wealth and prosperity indicated in the bustle of the streets of this town, which reminds one of England. Les Rosières one of the pieces which we saw, is an elegant trifle and will probably be translated to one of our London theatres.
Monday Novr 16 –
We were to have been off by half past 8 at the latest, but had to wait for our horses til near nine, and then our postilion contrived to make some delays on the road, which lost us half an hour and prevented us reaching Donkerque that night. Our road as far as Cassel we had travelled before, but could hardly have recognized it – for the villages which on leaving the Netherlands had shocked us by their dirt and dilapidation now surprized us by their neatness and regularity. Many of them appeared to have been half rebuilt, and numerous square brick cottages, with tiled or even slated roofs, and bearing the dates of 1817 & 1818, stood up like princes among the decaying mud hovels, and shewed that if the wealth which reared them had originated in plunder, the peace had at least brought the french soldiers home to spend it for the good of their families.
In our former journey, Mont Cassel had not pleased us more by the beauty of its situation, than from its having retained its verdure , after <it had> faded from all the surrounding country. It had still the same pre-eminence, and in spite of a most unpleasant day, it seemed as if summer still loved to linger there. But the town <had lost much of its interest> from the removal of the English troops, whose presence in the heart of another country had before had [sic] so striking an effect. We staid only about ¼ of an hour, and were off for Bergue – where the Landlord at the Hotel de la Poste informed us we could neither get out that night nor into Donkerque. We suspected this to be a trick, and told him that if we found it so we should complain. It proved really to be one, for the gates of Dunkerque as we found on enquiring are opened to travellers. Bergue is a curious town, seemingly strongly fortified, and with the great canal of Amiens running thro’ it. The appearance of ships in the heart of the town, under our windows was novel, and a bright moonlight gave it beauty. The canal at Lille is I think wider and grander, but from not coming before us in the same way had not the same effect, though it is a noble feature of the city. Papa was accommodated with three beds and I with two – the Inn and the attendance were both rather odd, and we had nearly as much difficulty to make ourselves understood as in Switzerland. In short the Wallon dialect seems to mingle as much with the french in all this quarter, from Doulens westward, as German did about Nancy. Our best interpreter was the Innkeepers daughter about 6 years old, who spoke both french and English well but I fear her precocious intellect marked her for an early grave.
Tuesday – Novr 17 –
We followed for a great part of our way to Donkerque the course of the Canal which looks like the boundary of kingdoms, the entrance to Donkerque over its ample moats is imposing. We found the town superior to what we had expected, especially in cleanliness. The port and basons which we glanced at, seemed in good repair and had much of the bustle of business – perhaps the presence of a few transports, waiting for our troops might increase it, but the place had more the air of a genuine, busy seaport than either Calais or Dieppe.
The Church has been ornamented with a magnificent Corinthian front, having a portico of ten columns of a noble size, and which Papa was pleased to praise as the handsomest Architecture of the kind he had seen in France – the interior is a simple Gothic, and like Antwerp without capitals.
Our road thro’ Gravelines to Calais was flat and uninteresting – and I could not help being surprized to find, how rarely one got a glance at the sea. It seemed as if the road had been purposely intended to exclude it. In England I think we should have made it otherwise.
It was about 4 o clock when we entered Calais where we were very civilly received by Mr Oakshott of the silver Lion to whom we restored our carriage and were gratified in return with princely apartments – two English looking bedrooms and a handsome carpetted [sic] sitting room. Also some good fish and a genuine roast duck with sage and onions, & a beefsteak.
Calais was now full of the English troops – above three thousand of whom had been some time detained by contrary winds – the horses had been on board two days, and it was said must be landed again <on> the morrow if the wind did not change. This was no favourable hearing for us – but the worst news was that a packet had tried to get out of the harbour the day before and could not, and we <were> shewn one which having got out was still lying at anchor a few miles off.
Wednesday Novr 18 –
We got thro’ all our business at Calais changed our french money into English, were passed at the Custom House and ready to sail at one o clock with the Lord Duncan. We embarked accordingly, tho’ there was much fear of our being all night on board, and by the advice of the mate who paid particular attention to us the whole time we were in his care, we lost no time in securing our beds. About 20 transports got out of the harbour with us and before us; but we were all obliged to lie at anchor for 2 hours as tho’ the wind was pretty fair the tide was against us. The mate told me that the wind was sufficient, if it continued, to carry us over in about four hours after the tide turned – and in fact we reached Dover as he calculated at 10 o clock. I was not so soon ill as on my former voyages, and notwithstanding the lateness of the season and the element we were on, the night was so mild that I remained on deck nearly the whole time.
We got our old apartments at the York Hotel, and had a good supper – Papa brought the Chapzigar cheese on shore in his pocket.
Thursday – Novr 19 – 56
Was like a day in August. Papa was gone to the Custom House when I came down – and I was glad to throw the doors and windows open. As the day advanced we were forced to put the fire out, and at last were driven onto the Cliffs for air. We past the Custom House with éclat, and Papa was much amused with the scenes exhibited on the quay. The Douaneers examining the military baggage, the soldiers adjusting their own dress, feeding and rubbing and saddling their horses, one bawling for a lost bridle, another for a stirrup, all bustle, noise and confusion. As they got ready they were ranged along the houses with the horses heads turned towards the sea – and then when all were prepared they commenced their journey.
Papa and I called at the Ship Inn on a Mrs Jones, to whose french governess I had lent my shawl on board the packet. Like a true frenchwoman, and one unused to travelling, she had flung it down in the first room she entered after landing and it was not to be found, but Mrs Jones would not believe it lost and promised to restore it in London.
[added on left page: About a fortnight after she called and insisted on dividing with me a shawl of the same kind as mine but better quality. Mine was half a one.]
We understood that Colonel Marly and all his family had been nearly victims to a fever which had either forced them to quit Gravelines or seized them immediately on their return. Such a disease seemed a natural consequence of his having removed them, at the hottest time of the year, from the airy heights of Dover to the low flat marshes of Gravelines. We heard that they were not yet recovered, so thought it best in every way not to make them a visit.
We had a pleasant walk on the hills towards Shakespeare’s Cliff but did not reach so far, and found no way down to the beach. Of course too frequent communication is not desirable where the heights are intended as fortifications. We had many fine views of the Castle and except the <Cathedral &> town at our approach I think I have seen no building so picturesque.
The officers had filled all the Coaches, and engaged all the post horses this morning, so we thought ourselves fortunate in being able to get places as far as Canterbury at 4 o clock – and to arrange to be taken up there at 9 the next morning. The Coach was heavily laden and beyond its time, but the stars were bright and the Evening mild & pleasant.
Friday – Novr 20
We were out at ½ past 7 on the Donjon walk where we saw the remains of some old walls, and ascended to the top of the mound. It is an agreeable walk – and the prospect good.
The Coach was again later than its time, and 5 were squeezed into the room of 4. We met with nothing of consequence but a search by the Custom House officers at Rochester. It was evident that they had some intelligence with the waiters at Canterbury for our night bags which we had had into our chambers underwent a scrutiny whereas our trunks &c remained untouched – but we had nothing to fear. I understand that they do not dare now to examine any one personally without very direct information, in consequence of a scrape that they got into a short time since. Two gentlemen whom they thought proper to examine very strictly and almost cut their clothes to pieces without finding any thing, brought an action against them and recovered considerably damages. I have a notion this knowledge was useful to a frenchman who was inside with us. He had no baggage and was coming to London <only for the night> as he said to fetch 2 ladies but I have some idea that he smuggled lace or something. There was also a party of Ladies on the top who were bringing over their poultry & pet birds. They had so much french finery outside that probably there was more within.
We did not get home till nine o clock heartily tired and very hungry. We found Mama very placid and cheerful tho’ evidently much weaker than when we left her, yet on the whole in better health. Sister too was much better than I had expected. Miss Stephenson tolerably well.
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