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Archive Reference / Library Class No.D8760/F/FEP/1/1/24
Former ReferenceD3311/50/6
TitleLetter from John Franklin to wife Eleanor Anne Franklin, describing his stay at New York before travelling further north on his second Arctic land expedition
Date22-24 Mar 1825
Description22 Mar 1825, with postscripts 23 and 24 Mar 1825. Describes observations and activities during a week's residence in New York: commercial bustle; accessibility for ships; street pattern; social life; shops interspersed with large houses and churches.  Well received: has attended balls: Commodore Chauncery attentive. Comments on local clergyman's acquaintance with Hunter and his opinion that Hunter's narrative is authentic. With Richardson spoke about the expedition to a learned gathering at the Lyceum.  Dismissive of exhibits in the museum: suggests that his wife would be amused at one of the waxwork exhibits.  It would be wrong to think he'd been idle: has been trying instruments and collecting botanical specimens.  Preparing to leave for Albany.  23 Mar: has attended a theatre performance.  Hopes wife is well - and their daughter after cutting teeth.  Describes lodgings.  Spare belongings of himself and Richardson to be sent back.  24 Mar: packing ready to leave New York.
Extent1 sheet
LevelItem
RepositoryDerbyshire Record Office
SenderJohn Franklin
Sender LocationNew York
RecipientEleanor Anne Franklin
Recipient LocationNo address
Archive CreatorEleanor Anne Porden, later Eleanor Franklin (1795-1825)
Gell family of Hopton Hall, Wirksworth
Transcript or IndexNew York 22 March 1825

My dearest Love,
A weeks residence here has enabled me to see nearly every thing that is interesting and I shall now endeavour to give you an account of the sights and of my occupations. The first circumstance that strikes a stranger on his landing at New York is the commercial bustle which pervades every part of the city. Its insular situation and the depth of the water surrounding it, allows of vessels approaching to any part of its shores and in consequence the town seems [?]fitted by ships. The principal street which is nearly three miles in extent forms the back bone or ridge and from this Broadway other streets branch off at right angles on either side towards the water. In this Broadway the Ladies parade from one to three, unaccompanied by the gentlemen who are all employed ‘till dinner, which is generally at the proper hour of three. The shops on each side, though not equal to those in Oxford Street are yet good and apparently well furnished, intermixed with them are the houses of the richest men, and most of the largest churches so that it is a motley assemblage, though some of the buildings are large & good. We were extremely well received and have had abundance of invitations. The second & third nights we were at Balls, where all the beauty & fashion were assembled. We thought however the ladies <much> inferior to the gentlemen in manner and information, though they were all well draped, and many of them danced cotillions very prettily. The houses of the first people are splendidly furnished and so are their entertainments. The British Consul gave a breakfast to the principal people that we might be introduced to them which was certainly the best way for <us to> get acquainted with them, and they have <since> called. The principal naval officer Commadore Chauncey has been very attentive and took us to see the Naval Yard, and their fine ships. We dined yesterday at the house of a Clergyman with whom Hunter frequently was during the time he was preparing his narrative. This gentleman has no doubt of its being authentic, and thinks that he dictated the whole to Capt Clark who arranged & corrected the sentences for him. In the first part of the Evening Dr Richardson and I went to the Lyceum expecting to hear some Geological papers, but they either had not any for that Even’g or did not choose to read such as they might have, and the only thing done was to beg we would state to them the objects of our Expedition, which I did in a very laconic manner as you may suppose. Leaving this party we went to a much more agreable one, a Conversazione at which <were> all the men eminent in Literature Philosophy and Science. It is given weekly at the House of Dr Hosack who has distinguished himself as a Botanist. The rooms were large and as full as I have usually seen Sir Joseph Banks’s. We were the Lions and I thought the Dr would never have done introducing the different professors to us. The topics of conversation were principally relating to Science and the parties seemed to be intelligent men. All of them expressed much interest in our proceedings; there seems indeed a <kind> feeling among all classes here for our success. Many however talk about our proceedings who know but little about the country we are to visit, and I have been surprized to find how little they are acquainted with the parts beyond their own boundaries. They have a very fine City Hall in which are held the Courts of Law and where the city business is transacted, it is faced with marble and has a magnificent appearance from the street. Behind this is a range of buildings in which are the Museum – the Lyceum of Arts – the Academy of Arts, and other rooms where the meetings of the different Philosophical Societies are held. There is nothing however in either of these apartments that would excite the attention of those who had been accustomed to see the collections in Europe, except it be the variety of beads in the Museum. This exhibition is the <property> of one individual, and like that of Bullocks, contains a number of curious things with much that is uninteresting – among others may be painted some miserable daubs intended to represent their naval victories in the late War and a collection of figures in wax work. Though you have no taste for wax work I am sure you would be amused at one of the Groups <in> which <are> represented Saul & the Witch of Endor, the former being dressed in a silk court dress with cotton stockings & half boots, and the latter in a chintz gown and seated in an armchair.
You will now begin to think that we have been nice idle people at this place, this however has not been the case. We have been trying our instruments and making observations every day. Dr R & Mr Drummond have been very busy in collecting botanical specimens, and we are preparing to set off for Albany the capitol of the state on Thursday 24th where we shall probably stay two days and then proceed by Niagara to York in Upper Canada. We shall be guided in our stay at this place, by circumstances. In this vicinity the season is unusually early. Lake Erie is even now open and probably Huron will also be, by the time we can get there, appearances therefore seem to favour our advances <towards Lake Superior> sooner than we had anticipated.
March 23rd 11.00 PM. I have just returned from the Theatre which I went to see as the last sight in New York, the performance was Sweethearts & [?]Arms and Capt.n Franklin figured away in good style. It is a neat house and happened to be well filled. <Some of> the gentlemen however sat in their hats in the dress Boxes, by the side of the Ladies. So much for a young country and for Liberty & Independence. Our name figures here in many conspicuous places but I cannot say that I felt flattered at the recognition, nor will you, for I think we are both truly English.
Now for home. I often think how you and our little girl are getting on. I am always <so> sanguine as to hope you are well and that Missy has got over her teeth in a comfortable manner. I long to hear from you, and it is unfortunate that the next packet has not arrived, which will no doubt bear letters from you, or some one of the family in Devonshire [?]Street.
Dr Richardson is writing opposite to me, and desires his kindest regards <so do my other compns [? for companions]>. We are to set off to Albany tomorrow morning at ten o clock in a boat which arrives there that Evening. I have several letters to write and must bid you goodbye. Kiss our darling many times for Papa.
Ever yours most affectionately
John Franklin

I ought to tell you we have been lodging at a Boarding House kept by an English Lady <Mrs Wilkinson>, and in the most pleasant part of the City. The Hotels were full and if this had not been the case, they are not so pleasant as these Houses. Dr R. and I have put our spare things in one trunk which we shall send back by the May Packet addressed to you. The Doctor wishes his things to remain till we return at our house. I send you likewise Back’s sketch of Porden Isles mentioned in my last. <with his best comps>.
March 24th 8 AM We are packing up ready to depart from hence all well & in high glee.
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